The Bowler, Wandsworth – Review

The words `local` and `luxury` are rarely uttered within the same breathe outside an SW1 postcode until it seems now. The suburbs of South West London have smartened up. Venture into Wandsworth these days and you`ll find yummy mummys lining up outside gorgeous boutiques, picking up organic groceries then lunching at chic cafes. This is the land that gastro pub The Bowler inhabits.

Step inside and you`ll find a laid back but beautifully laid out interior. I visited on damp and drizzly Saturday night, stumbling off the street into a cheering an acoustic session in full swing with a local fan club propping up the bar. Further into the pub sat the restaurant. Buzzing and full to the brim with happy diners, they toasted and drank their way into the weekend. Warm and softly lit with a neutral interior it`s at once contemporary and devoid of pretension, perfect for both an intimate dinner date or catch up with old friends. Sitting in our cosy booth we were lord and lady of all we surveyed, kicking off the evening with a couple of suitably regal `Bowler champagne cocktail – divine!

The menu is predominantly British with European influences, there isn`t anything especially unusual but then that isn`t what you`d expect nor want. And when the dishes arrive they are full and flavoursome. We dined on salty goats cheese and chilli squid, were impressed by a meaty monkfish and juicy steak, the spinach was just the right side of buttery and the carrots deliciously fresh. Of course dinner wouldn`t be complete without desert and dark chocolate pot seemed the safest if not the most innocent option. Combined with a couple of powerful expressos we announced the evening a success. Forgive the pun- but we were suitably bowled over.